ECU / Computer / CPU / Central processor for fuel injection The numbers beginning with 500 are Volvos numbers for their rebuilt units. The last three digits of the Bosch number are what counts: In number: 0 280 000 951 it's the “951” that distinguishes the part. (Note that this information will be edited and added to periodically.)
5003777 B23F 83-84 240 series CU91X 0280000503 503 0280000510 510 (common) 5003778 B23FT Used on the 84 740 turbo which had a B23FT, Bosch 0280000507 507(rare)
3517011 B230F 85-88 CU119X Bosch # 0280000554 554 without EGR 5003707 B230F to 1985-88 240 / 740 series without EGR CU119X Bosch # 0280000544 544(common) 3517609 B230FT seen on 85-89 740/760/780 turbo cars (not sure, with or without EGR?) 3517407 B230F B230F 89-93 w/o EGR aka 0280000561 561 5003926 B230F 89+ w/o EGR aka 0 986 261 104 aka 0280000951 951 (common) 5003953 3517370 9146220 B230FT 90-95 w/o EGR 851 53006 696 0280000563 563 740/940 turbo (common)
8601218 B230FT 1995 (made by Siemens?) Not sure if with or without EGR
1367487 5003765 B230FT to 89 with EGR 0280000541 541 used on 740/760/780 (common) 8601056 B230FD 93 with EGR (not common) 8601150 B230FD 94+ with EGR (not common) 5003940 B230FT 94 with EGR (no info) 8601218 B230FT 95 with EGR (made by Siemens?) 5003954 9146222 B230F 89+ w/ EGR 85153007 696 originally 0280000556 556 0280000933 933 (common) 5003952 3517368 9135138 B230FT w/EGR 90-95 740/940 turbo 0280000560 560 0280000939 939
8601056 B230F 89+ Regina / automatic (not common) 5003861 B230FT 89-93 Regina / manual (not common)
3517609 B234F (16 valve) Seen on 89+ aka 0280000571 571 also used on 740/760 turbo B230FT 5003794 B234F (16 valve) 89-91 with EGR aka 562 (rare) 5003840 B234F (16 valve) 92+ aka 571 (rare)
Oil capacity 4 Qts with filter / Oil filter: 3517857 / Oil plug seal: 18818 Oil cap seal: 940096 NOTE: No flame trap on turbo models. Flame trap: 1389657 (all non turbo 240/740 models) FT nipple '81-7 1336681 / FT hose '81-7 1336682 FT nipple '88 up 3501707 / FT hose '88 up 3501708 Timing belt through 1992: 463377 / 271713 / TB032 Timing belt '93 up 271747 Timing belt tensioner: 463633 All B21/23 & B230 turbo & non turbo models Front crank seal: 1276424 Front cam & intermediate shaft seal: 1306333 (need 2 per car)
Most neglected service on most 240 Volvos: Corroded ceramic fuses causing strange electrical problems. Neglected flame traps causing excessive crankcase pressure and leaking or blown seals.
How to make the fuel pump run on a 240 Volvo: The quick way to make the fuel pump run is via the fuse box. You can make a jumper from a straightened paper clip as in the picture below. I prefer to jump it on the right side, (the fused side) of the fuses 1979-84 jump #5 to #7 fuses; on 1985 up jump #4 to #6 fuses. Be sure the fuse tips aren't corroded, or this may be the problem. If the fuel pump doesn't run doing this it indicates a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump. If the fuse blows the circuit is grounded.
Problem: Volvo heater defroster doesn't work on driver's side. Easy fix. It's a common problem due to a lack of vacuum to the drivers side defroster servo. Under the hood you will find the small vacuum hose coming from the firewall that is split where it connects at the intake manifold port. Trim the split part of the hose and re-attach it. Use a small wire tie to make it less apt to split. Sometimes the hose splits where it goes through the firewall. 95% of the time it's that simple a fix!
Problem: Volvo 240 clutch drags, won't completely disengage, grinds going into reverse, cable is adjusted all the way and there is still too much pedal play. Easy fix most of the time. The ball socket is worn where the clutch arm pivots in the bell housing. It's held in place with an 8mm screw on the passenger side on the outside of the bell housing. Buy a 50mm long 8mm screw and grind or file the threaded tip so it has a ball shape. Remove the 8mm screw from the bell housing while holding the drivers side of the throwout arm or fork forward so the pivot doesn't turn while you remove the 8mm screw that holds it on the passenger side.
Now put about three flat washers on the long (50mm) screw and a dab of grease on the tip of it and screw it in while pushing the clutch fork forward on the drivers side to hold the pivot so it doesn't turn. When you get the long screw most of the way in you will feel the drivers side of the arm pushing rearward. The long screw is your new pivot and this will give you more adjustment on the clutch. (More below picture.)
The picture shows the tip of the bolt projecting farther than you will need it, but you get the idea. The ideal total length of the bolt should be about 50mm or 2 inches and three washers. By using more or fewer washers it adjusts how far the new bolt or screw goes into the pivot. Obviously in many cases there is no option but to change the clutch if it's warped and drags. But what a nice surprise when you can fix it for less than a dollar without taking the transmission and clutch out of the car!
After puzzling over where the popping sounds were coming from when I backed up then pulled forward I've found that many times the four bolts holding the front crossmember to the subframe weren't tight. Note the arrows in the picture, two on each side of the engine compartment.
Granted there are other things that make noises ... more later.